S10-EV Mailing List Archive

My air conditioning stopped working. Also my heat pump did not work this winter. The diesel heater worked great when it was really cold.Last summer my air conditioning worked some time, it was temperamental. it would start working then after a while of driving; a warning light would come on the dash. I believe it was service soon, not 100 % positive. THe air would stop working and the regen would no longer work. Once I got to were I wanted to go shut it off, do what I came to do , then start it up again and repeat the cycle. This did not happen every time. The heat pump has never seemed to work or maybe I was not patient enough. The other day I went to an air conditoning guy. He hooked up his gauges and said the pressures were about equal and did not look like it needed 134A. He said it looked like an electrical problem because the compressor was not pumping. The fan comes on right away behind the radiator when you turn on the air conditioning. I tried the cycling the aucuator valve. It would clunk back and forth.With the tech 2 hooked up there is no faults showing up. With the aircondioning on there is no amp reading on the tech 2 for the compressor. Everthing else seems to work fine.ideas?
The AC readings are Low side 460 kpa High side 400kpa.
I tried butting a 2x4 on the compressor and tapping it wth a hammer to see if it might jare something lose.
I have wiggled everconnection I can think of. The htcm under the drivers seat look great connections look good no water problems or corrorusion ?Or progressive tests I can make?
?Suggestions for maybe a bad connection somewhere? Thanks Rick Falk
[email removed]
417-839-6657 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rick

My air conditioning stopped working. Also my heat pump did not work this winter. The diesel heater worked great when it was really cold.Last summer my air conditioning worked some time, it was temperamental. it would start working then after a while of driving; a warning light would come on the dash. I believe it was service soon, not 100 % positive. THe air would stop working and the regen would no longer work. Once I got to were I wanted to go shut it off, do what I came to do , then start it up again and repeat the cycle. This did not happen every time. The heat pump has never seemed to work or maybe I was not patient enough. The other day I went to an air conditoning guy. He hooked up his gauges and said the pressures were about equal and did not look like it needed 134A. He said it looked like an electrical problem because the compressor was not pumping. The fan comes on right away behind the radiator when you turn on the air conditioning. I tried the cycling the aucuator valve. It would clunk back and forth.With the tech 2 hooked up there is no faults showing up. With the aircondioning on there is no amp reading on the tech 2 for the compressor. Everthing else seems to work fine.ideas?
The AC readings are Low side 460 kpa High side 400kpa.
I tried butting a 2x4 on the compressor and tapping it wth a hammer to see if it might jare something lose.
I have wiggled everconnection I can think of. The htcm under the drivers seat look great connections look good no water problems or corrorusion ?Or progressive tests I can make?
?Suggestions for maybe a bad connection somewhere? Thanks Rick Falk
[email removed]
417-839-6657 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rick

On Sep 22, 2011, at 12:00 PM, Richard Falk wrote: > My air conditioning stopped working. Also my heat pump did not work this winter. > > The diesel heater worked great when it was really cold.Last summer my air > conditioning worked some time, it was temperamental. it would start working then > > after a while of driving; a warning light would come on the dash. I believe it > was service soon, not 100 % positive. THe air would stop working and the regen > would no longer work. Once I got to were I wanted to go shut it off, do what > I came to do , then start it up again and repeat the cycle. This did not happen > every time. The heat pump has never seemed to work or maybe I was not patient > enough. The other day I went to an air conditoning guy. He hooked up his gauges > and said the pressures were about equal and did not look like it needed 134A. He > > said it looked like an electrical problem because the compressor was not > pumping. The fan comes on right away behind the radiator when you turn on the > air conditioning. I tried the cycling the aucuator valve. It would clunk back > and forth.With the tech 2 hooked up there is no faults showing up. With the > aircondioning on there is no amp reading on the tech 2 for the compressor. > Everthing else seems to work fine.ideas?
> The AC readings are Low side 460 kpa High side 400kpa.
> I tried butting a 2x4 on the compressor and tapping it wth a hammer to see if it > might jare something lose.
> I have wiggled everconnection I can think of. > The htcm under the drivers seat look great connections look good no water > problems or corrorusion
> > Or progressive tests I can make?
> Suggestions for maybe a bad connection somewhere? APCM is my guess. (See below.) I gather that your batteries are lead-acid. APCMs are essential equipment for nickel trucks because their batteries need cooling while charging. Lead's don't, so you can get by without an APCM. Good thing, too. I don't think anyone's ever repaired a bad APCM. The "Hybrid" (high-temperature ceramic-substrate integrated circuit) that usually blows (due to inadequate heat transfer to the case, an assembly process flaw) isn't made any more. When GM was selling them, they got over $4K for an APCM. --Gil On Nov 16, 2010, at 1:04 PM, Gil Dawson wrote: > ...
> I know a little bit about two APCM functions.
> > The APCM charged the 12V Auxiliary battery from the traction batteries. (Incidentally, APCM failures have been suspected to be caused by aged Auxiliary batteries' drawing too much power for too long. So we developed a rule to replace the Auxiliary battery every year, whether it needs it or not, to conserve APCMs.) > > Second, the APCM responded to computer control to deliver power to the compressor of the heat transfer system. The compressor runs on variable-frequency AC current 60 to 120 Hz, 3 to 5 amps, about 120V nominal to produce the proper coolant pressures. The variable-frequency synchronous-motor design was probably chosen for weight considerations and for energy efficiency. > ...