S10-EV Mailing List Archive

Hello, Well, over the past few weeks, I?ve been through
everything except for the battery pack motor or motor connector. Last week-end,
I found the HTCM and followed Jeff?s suggestion to connect/disconnect the
HTCM several times. This did not help. The blower motor seems likely to have
failed; part number is 52494108. Next step is to get under the truck, check the connector and
replace the blower motor. I see from a few years ago that Niel, Paul and John, at
least, have mentioned a detailed procedure for removing the blower motor
without first removing the pack. Does anyone have a copy of the procedure to
post the list or send to me, then I?ll post it? >From talking to Don, it seems the procedure involves using a
come-along to pull a support bracket out of the way, then removing the diesel
heater exhaust pipe to free up enough space to get to the blower motor. More
detail would be nice, if possible, before I end up feeling my way through the
process untested. Any help or advice would be appreciated! Thanks, [email removed] -------------- next part --------------
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Robert-- I have not read any previous post you might have written on this topic, but I'm assuming that the blower motor inside the battery box isn't running, or is not running fast enough. If so, and, before you buy a new blower motor, you might wish to first review an experience I had, below. --Gil On Aug 16, 2009, at 5:32 PM, Gil Dawson wrote: > Jeff & Paul--
> > When we had what sounds like the same problem, Eric Luebben and I traced it to a burned connector in the circuit supplying constant 12V power to the battery box fan.
> > Eric had replaced the fan, but the new one still did not turn. We pulled the plug and measured the supply voltage. It read a full 12 volts. We looked at the control line with an oscilloscope and saw the PWM pulses. We were stumped until we came up with a way to measure the supply voltage while the fan was running.
> > The test that showed us what was happening was to unplug the battery box fan, push a little push-pin from Eric's bulletin board through the middle of the 12V supply wire going into the fan's plug, clip our voltmeter from the pushpin to chassis, then plug the fan back in. Sure enough, the 12V supply wire dropped several volts when we pushed in the fan plug.
> > Using GM's electrical diagrams (which required a couple hours' study to learn to interpret), we traced the 12V supply wire to that nest of connectors in front of the driver's side firewall, and we found the particular connector that that particular supply line went through. Using the same pushpin technique, we demonstrated that the 12V was steady on the supply side of the connector yet dropped the same number of volts on the load side of the connector when we plugged in the fan.
> > When we opened the connector, we saw that the pin carrying the 12V supply to the fan was badly burned, although there was no such indication on the outside of the connector. Rather than replace the connector, we simply clipped the two wires and joined them outside the connector with a butt-splice.
> > I no longer have the GM electrical diagrams, and Richard Hatfield has the truck now. Perhaps he could could be persuaded to look in that nest and identify the connector with the butt-splice strapped around it.
> > Once the connector is identified, the pushpin technique is a simple test to determine whether that same connector pin might have burned out in Paul's truck. Or, he could open it and look.
> > A similar failure had occurred in a connector near the condenser fan buffer. In this case, the connector was easy to identify and easy to open, and the burned pin was readily observable, so no pushpins were required. However, the similarity of these two failures suggests a GM design problem common to both cases, that of sending too much current through these pins.
> > I feel certain GM would have corrected this design problem in a later version, had there been a later version.
> > --Gil On Jun 15, 2011, at 10:04 PM, Robert Ogle wrote: > > Hello,
> > Well, over the past few weeks, I?ve been through everything except for the battery pack motor or motor connector. Last week-end, I found the HTCM and followed Jeff?s suggestion to connect/disconnect the HTCM several times. This did not help. The blower motor seems likely to have failed; part number is52494108.
> > Next step is to get under the truck, check the connector and replace the blower motor.
> > I see from a few years ago that Niel, Paul and John, at least, have mentioned a detailed procedure for removing the blower motor without first removing the pack. Does anyone have a copy of the procedure to post the list or send to me, then I?ll post it?
> > From talking to Don, it seems the procedure involves using a come-along to pull a support bracket out of the way, then removing the diesel heater exhaust pipe to free up enough space to get to the blower motor. More detail would be nice, if possible, before I end up feeling my way through the process untested.
> > Any help or advice would be appreciated! Thanks,
> > [email removed]
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One thing I did after the third fan/connector burnt out was to run a
separate fused circuit directly from the battery to the fan power and
ground. I seem to remember Jeff saying half the problem was a shared ground
with some other component and the other half being the various spade
connectors dropping voltage. It's pretty easy to do, the only part you need
(other than red/black wire and tape) is a waterproof fuse housing. I
connected the red and black wires on the fan connector to the new circuit
and left the purple (control) wire connected to whatever it was connected to
before. I didn't have any more problems after that. As for the procedure you mention, I didn't see the PDF but I was able to do
the procedure with one person by using one of those cinch-down straps with a
hook on each end wrapped around the free end of the support bracket and the
front suspension. And you need deep socket wrenches to loosen the bolts that
are inside the frame rails. From: [email removed]
[mailto:[email removed]] On Behalf Of Robert Ogle
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 11:04 PM
To: [email removed]; Robert Ogle
Subject: [S10-EV] Detailed Procedure for Battery Pack Blower Motor
Replacement - Repeat Send Hello, Well, over the past few weeks, I've been through everything except for the
battery pack motor or motor connector. Last week-end, I found the HTCM and
followed Jeff's suggestion to connect/disconnect the HTCM several times.
This did not help. The blower motor seems likely to have failed; part number
is 52494108. Next step is to get under the truck, check the connector and replace the
blower motor. I see from a few years ago that Niel, Paul and John, at least, have
mentioned a detailed procedure for removing the blower motor without first
removing the pack. Does anyone have a copy of the procedure to post the list
or send to me, then I'll post it? >From talking to Don, it seems the procedure involves using a come-along to
pull a support bracket out of the way, then removing the diesel heater
exhaust pipe to free up enough space to get to the blower motor. More detail
would be nice, if possible, before I end up feeling my way through the
process untested. Any help or advice would be appreciated! Thanks, [email removed] No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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